Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

doi:10.1007/s00343-009-9089-z

IOCAS-IR > 海洋环流与波动重点实验室

	Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period
	Hou Yijun 1,2; Li Mingjie 1,2,3; Song Guiting 1,2; Si Guangcheng 1,2,3; Qi Peng1,2 ; Hu Po1,2
	2009-11-01
发表期刊	CHINESE JOURNAL OF OCEANOLOGY AND LIMNOLOGY
ISSN	0254-4059
卷号	27 期号:4 页码:919-923
文章类型	Article
摘要	Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37A degrees 27.6' N, 122A degrees 15.1' E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (nu=0.3-0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.; Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37A degrees 27.6' N, 122A degrees 15.1' E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (nu=0.3-0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.
关键词	Random Ocean Wave Nonlinearity Wave Period Distribution
学科领域	Limnology ; Oceanography
DOI	10.1007/s00343-009-9089-z
URL	查看原文
收录类别	SCI
语种	英语
WOS记录号	WOS:000272422300029
引用统计
文献类型	期刊论文
条目标识符	http://ir.qdio.ac.cn/handle/337002/2382
专题	海洋环流与波动重点实验室海洋环境腐蚀与生物污损重点实验室
作者单位	1.Chinese Acad Sci, Key Lab Ocean Circulat & Waves, Qingdao 266071, Peoples R China 2.Chinese Acad Sci, Inst Oceanol, Qingdao 266071, Peoples R China 3.Chinese Acad Sci, Grad Sch, Beijing 100049, Peoples R China
第一作者单位	海洋环流与波动重点实验室; 中国科学院海洋研究所
推荐引用方式 GB/T 7714	Hou Yijun,Li Mingjie,Song Guiting,et al. Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period[J]. CHINESE JOURNAL OF OCEANOLOGY AND LIMNOLOGY,2009,27(4):919-923.
APA	Hou Yijun,Li Mingjie,Song Guiting,Si Guangcheng,Qi Peng,&Hu Po.(2009).Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period.CHINESE JOURNAL OF OCEANOLOGY AND LIMNOLOGY,27(4),919-923.
MLA	Hou Yijun,et al."Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period".CHINESE JOURNAL OF OCEANOLOGY AND LIMNOLOGY 27.4(2009):919-923.

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